Text conversations in this story occurred as the story itself was being drafted. Names have been changed for security reasons.

I am at home, near London. As I compile sources for a story on the treatment of transgender women in police custody in Egypt, my correspondent in Amman shows up in my Facebook feed.

Layla is a Jordanian writer on LGBTQ+ issues. We’ve worked together on a couple stories, mine and hers. It feels strange to call her ‘correspondent’, though that’s accurate enough. We don’t know each other very well but, in the small world of transgender women working in journalism, ‘correspondent’ doesn’t feel…enough. Our shared experience forms a closer connection, beyond the merely professional.

Layla’s Facebook post is personal, not business:

"Today, I went out for the first time in Jordan as myself, wearing women’s clothes...women’s jeans, women’s top, and women’s shoes, not very noticeable...but it was showing the changes in my body shape. I was very confident and didn’t fear being in streets looking this way. Next time, maybe I’ll use some makeup...and maybe I’ll write a post about it from jail :)"

I feel a chill.

Her post ends with a smile emoji, but she is not joking; she is being ironic. I think of Jordan as relatively safe for trans women, unlike much of the Arab world. I haven’t really thought about Jordan, frankly.

I text her:

How serious is the risk, dressing in Jordan?

It is very serious

If you get arrested you’ll be like a gift for them to enjoy…

...if you have bad luck...things will be really bad

There is no law against it, but they’ll enjoy humiliating you

No law, but they still arrest you?

Yes

When you say ‘humiliate’ do you mean assault?

Yes...maybe physical assault also

but not in a way to cause injuries

How long do they hold you?

A day or 2, maximum.

OMG

Well, not as bad as Egypt. I guess.

No, not as bad as Egypt