Naomy Méndez Romero is lucky — her first dress and heels were a gift from her father, and her university lets her wear what she likes. In macho southern Mexico in the 21st century, that matters, because Naomy is a muxe.
Born men, but often living as women, muxe — pronounced “MU-shay” — occupy a traditional role in indigenous Zapotec culture that goes beyond identifying as gay. But Naomy, who is studying law part time and wants to go into politics, sees obstacles even in her hometown of Juchitán de Zaragoza, in the state of Oaxaca, where muxe are part of the fabric of society. “I’m breaking the stereotype or stigma in our region,” she says of a tradition where muxe, who do not necessarily undergo surgery, are expected to stick to stereotypically feminine jobs like cooks, seamstresses or beauticians, and to stay single.
“I want to be a lawyer. I want 100 percent acceptance, not 70 percent, for this to be a true muxe paradise,” she adds.
Naomy, 28, wears female clothes for her weekday job as a secretary at the town hall, where she is allowed to use women’s bathrooms. Estrella Vásquez Guerra, 36, also a muxe and the municipality’s director of sexual diversity, sports the traditional long skirts and blouses that were the hallmark of artist Frida Kahlo. “I love people to turn round and look at me,” says the tall and striking Estrella with a laugh. “We’re fighting to become more and more visible … but there’s still homophobia, still men who don’t accept us in offices or other public places.”
Like many countries, Mexico is struggling to balance nondiscriminatory legislation with social conservatism. Read more via OZY
Muxes: gender-fluid lives in a small Mexican town
In the latest Guardian documentary we meet three muxes, people whose gender identity is unique to the Oaxaca region and the indigenous Zapoteca culture
Being muxe is often confused with being transgender, but it is an identity specific to the Oaxaca region and the indigenous Zapoteca culture. Having a muxe person in the family has come to be seen as good luck and even a blessing. But life outside Juchitán is not always easy. For the documentary Muxes, the director Shaul Schwarz reconnects with the characters and culture he photographed extensively from 2002-06.
Muxe and other gender identities
Muxe is a little known tradition, but the Guardian has previously written about muxe people in the context of a travel article. Our coverage of the transgender experience is extensive, but the muxe identity has more in common with being non-binary, which is explained further in this film. The Guardian has spoken to a growing younger population who identify as non-binary, interviewed the creator of the TV series Transparent, which has brought discussions of trans rights to the mainstream, and written about the decline of gender stereotyping. We recently reported on an inspiring music project giving new hope to indigenous Zapotec young people in Oaxaca. Read more via the Guardian